Aerate – The lush lawn “secret weapon”!

Why Aerate? In nature grass will grow to at least several feet high during the spring. As the grass grows higher, the root system will grow deeper which breaks up the soil and allows good drainage. Grass is better able to absorb water with a deeper root system enabling it to survive when the weather turns hot and dry.

Most home owners associations frown on letting grass grow to several feet high, and the result of mowing is diminished root systems in our lawns. We do our best to keep our lawn alive by watering it when hot weather arrives but grass grows more slowly the hotter it gets. Since the roots are also growing slower they absorb less water causing the soil to absorb most of the water we apply. This causes it to compress, which in turn stops root growth and eventually causes your lawn's root system to shrink even more. The cycle repeats itself over and over until you're left with little but brown grass and rock-hard soil.

Grass can grow just about anywhere, but sometimes it needs a little help. This is particularly true in our heavy, clay based, poor draining soil. If your grass is brown and the ground feels like rock, aeration may be your solution. Grass won't grow on a rock; turn the tables by aerating twice a year. Aeration improves air circulation, helps break down any buildup of thatch and other organic material, improves moisture and nutrient distribution, loosens tight, compacted soil giving roots room to grow, and helps oxygen reach plant roots allowing them to "breathe".

Three Signs It’s time to aerate

  • Your lawn is thinning. If your yard seems to be thinning and you can't trace any other obvious cause, such as a new source of shade or watering changes, the reason may be soil compaction.
  • ertilizer doesn't do much good anymore. When soil is highly compacted, the lawn fertilizer nutrients are unable to reach the roots of grass. If you fertilize but don't see much in the way of results, you may have overly compacted soil.
  • You have a lot of runoff. Overly compacted soil doesn't absorb water as well as soil with space between particles. If you're starting to see more runoff than normal, and more rain or irrigation isn't the cause, you may need to aerate.

  • We recommend aerating two weeks before fertilizer application.

    Apply Weed and Feed

    Many of you have been asking us to apply weed and feed. March is the best time for this application because feeding too early, before the grass can use nutrients, is a waste of product. The weed and feed may help eliminate some of the weeds, but will do nothing in terms of greening the grass and may contribute to disease such as Brown Patch.

    Trim Crape Myrtles, Roses and Ornamental Grasses

    One of the most beautiful of summer blooming shrubs and trees in southern landscapes, crape myrtles benefit from late-winter pruning to remove dead, weak or crossing branches and suckers./

    Roses are trimmed back regularly to promote new plant growth and to lessen the risk of damage resulting from disease and pests. Valentine’s Day through mid-March is the best time for trimming most roses.

    Cutting back ornamental grasses ensures the new growth will be able to emerge unhindered by old or frost damaged foliage, providing a nice flush of growth in the spring.

    Add New Mulch

    Nothing spruces up the appearance of your landscaping like a new layer of mulch around trees and in beds. Mulch is possibly the most essential element in protecting plant roots from extreme temperatures, conserving soil moisture and discouraging weeds.

    Mulch is available in brown and black, with black being the most popular choice.

    Contact us to schedule your spring spruce-up services!


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